Real wood stoves composed of bricks continue to remain popular, despite the periodic appearance of more and more modern heating systems. At the same time, it is quite possible to create a home brick furnace for a home with your own hands, without involving masters — for this it is only necessary to follow the technological requirements for their installation. At the same time, the main questions, to which it is necessary to answer before the start of installation, will be:
In which place is the stove;
What materials and tools will be required in the process of work;
how to prepare a solution for masonry;
which brick is better to use for the furnace;
What will the guess look like if an ordinary stove on wood with your own hands will be laid out with bricks with your own hands from a brick with an oven, Dutchwoman, a Swede, a Russian stove or (if you do not put a brick furnace with your own hands, but a hybrid stove-stone) how to make a fireplace with your own hands from bricks;
how to paint a brick stove in the house.
DIY brick stove — requirements for placement
When choosing a place in a wood -wood stove, you should not only try to save a place, but also take into account the need to comply with some linear parameters relating to the chimney:
If there are wooden structures in the house, through which the chimney will pass, the distance of the brick walls of the chimney to them should be at least 40 cm;
The upper point of the pipe (when it is withdrawn through the roof) can be located below the skate only at distances of 3 or more meters from it, to be flush with it at a distance of 1.5 meters and half a meter higher at an even smaller distance.
DIY brick stove — materials and tools
DIY brick furnace, regardless of choosing its type, will require the use of almost the same set of tools and materials.
Of the first ones, a shovel will necessarily be needed (to knead the solution), a trowel and an extension (for masonry), a grinder (for cutting bricks on the required part of the part), as well as a rule, a level, a plumb line, a mooring cord (for leveling horizontal and vertical) and brush) and brush). The second ones will fall fatty clay, clean sand, red and refractory brick (for various rows of masonry), paint, as well as auxiliary elements — one or another list of damper, doors, valves, vyushki, and in certain types of furnaces there are also a grate and a grate and a grate and also hob.
Masonry solution
DIY brick stove for home begins with the preparation of a good refractory solution. Its components will be thoroughly cleaned of soy, washed and soaked in water fatty clay and sifted through a 1.5-mm sieve sand. Knighting with the addition of water is carried out until the solution with the consistency of the sour cream begins to leave a layer about 1 mm on it when running out of the shovel. In this case, from the heat of the melted furnace, he will not crack, not crumble, but practically turn into stone.
Brick for laying the furnace — which one to choose?
Use 2 types of bricks — a full -bodied red for zones that are not directly walls of the furnace, and fireproof yellow for places with the highest temperatures.
Important! With the need for masonry ¼, ½ or ¾ bricks, the necessary pieces are better to cut into a grinder, and not roll off with a hammer.
DIY brick -brick stoves — guess
Answering the question of how to fold a brick stove with your own hands, it should be noted that there are as many accurate sketches of laying as many types of stoves. Since it is impossible to state them all within the framework of one article, we will dwell on a brief layout scheme of the most popular of brick furnaces — the Swede.
The order of such a furnace, installed on a finished and completely frozen foundation, will take the following view (by rows):
1st is the most important, since it “sets the tone” in compliance with strict horizontal and vertical accuracy.
2nd-begins with the installation of the door blower (as a rule, it is placed on the right), to the sides of which masonry is carried out with a dressing (displacement) for a third or half of the brick.
3rd-is placed similarly to the second-so that the upper edge of the blower door is on the same level with the top of the row.
4th-on the left is a door for cleaning, after which the masonry continues so as to form a square hole above the asles.
5th-differs from the previous one by narrowing of the hole and thoroughly cleaning the surface of the bricks, on which the grate will be laid (with a gap of about 1.5 cm, laid out by asbestos cord or filled with sand).
6th-is the first row of refractory brick and the basis for installing a furnace door.
7th-in it they will take the beginning of 3 P-shaped channel.
8th and 9th are completely identical to the 7th. At the same time, the 9th is flush with the top of the door of the furnace.
10th — serves as an overlap for the furnace door and at the same time the basis for installing the booth for cooking.
11th-leaves a couple of square channels on the left and another small top-end door, asymmetric from the first.
The 12th and 13th rows are almost identical, but in the lower, the channels are united, and in the upper-a new separation.
14th-one of the channels closes the damper.
15th-overlaps the valve.
16th-the door of the second furnace.
17th-the basis for overlapping hobs of steel strips.
18th and 19th-full overlap for the hob.
20th and 21st-a place for installing a samovar pipe and treatment door.
22nd-ceiling for them.
23rd and 24th-cover channels.
25th and 26th-ceiling.
From the 27th to the 30th-smoke channel.
In the 31st-it is overlapped by a valve.
32nd and 33rd-the basis for the chimney.
The finished furnace remains only to whitewash, paint or put it with ceramics or tiles.